It’s being hailed as one of the most important tastings for New York wines in years: Cab Franc Forward, a bold movement to establish Cabernet Franc as the official grape of New York State.
Wineries from the North and South Fork of Long Island, the Hudson Valley, and the Finger Lakes came together to showcase their different expressions of this often under-appreciated grape. In total, over 35 wineries were represented, and I had the chance to connect with many of our local friends and producers while also meeting others producing quality wine across the state.
Cabernet Franc is the proud parent grape of Cabernet Sauvignon, the world’s most popular grape. When people come into the store looking for local Cabernet Sauvignon, unfortunately, I don’t have many options for them. And the few I do have often don't quite match the profile of the California wines they're used to. While the North Fork can produce some especially elegant Cabernet Franc, it doesn’t consistently yield great Cabernet Sauvignon. But why is that?
Simply put, the North Fork isn't the place for Cabernet Sauvignon. Cab Sauv needs a warmer climate and a longer growing season. It’s no secret that regions like Napa Valley have the heat and extended ripening time that Cabernet Sauvignon thrives in, while places like Mattituck just don’t. Like all fruits and vegetables, certain varieties grow best in specific climates. Through years of research, and frankly a lot of human trial and error, we’ve done a pretty good job figuring out what works where.
It sounds cliché, but it’s like comparing apples to oranges. Sure it’s an overused metaphor with its flaws, but let’s take it literally for a second. When was the last time you heard of a New York orange? Maybe one day, due to climate change, Tropicana will be bottling Suffolk County oranges, but for now, we’re growing apples—and doing one heck of a job at it.
It may sound biased, but I enjoyed the North Fork expressions of Cab Franc more than those from other regions. Picking a favorite among them is tough, so I’ll leave it up to our customers to decide as we happily continue to host local producers in-store to pour and share their takes on this grape we’re proud to call our own.
If you’re curious about the wines I tasted, check out a few of my notes down below.
Bedell Cellars Cabernet Franc 2022: Nearly everyone from the North Fork is pouring their 2022 wines today. A vintage of great warmth and concentration, that they expect from 2024 as well. Bedell wines consistently have this wonderful pure fruit notes that you can individually pick out. Cherry, raspberry and an ease of drinking that is balanced beautifully with the high acid characteristic of Long Island’s soil.
Onabay Night Heron Cabernet Franc 2019: Produced only in the best vintages, this wine by John Leo is exquisite. Aged in used French oak barrels it’s a full and rich example of Cabernet Franc. Really surprised and happy with the decision to bring this wine in without tasting and trusting the winemaker.
Dr. Konstatin Frank Winery Cabernet Franc 2022: Konstatin Frank has been growing Cabernet Franc for over 50 years and showed off the ageability of the varietal by pouring a bottle from their library from 2010. The 2022 is aged 18 months in French oak barrels with more black fruit quality and a touch of dried herbs and fresh cracked pepper.
Macari Vineyards “Lifeforce” Cabernet Franc 2022: Macari’s “Lifeforce” wines are fermented in concrete eggs. It’s light to medium bodied with fresh juicy red fruit, a slightly crunchy finish and a touch of herbaceousness. It’s really refreshing and would be fun summer sipper. Pour a glass near a campfire and enjoy.
Macari Vineyards Cabernet Franc 2022 Pre-Release: The soon-to-hit shelves 2022 from Macari is splendid. More crunchy pyrazine notes (green and black pepper) come through on this bottling. More wild red fruits and slight olive aromas. This is a broader and more complex wine than the lifeforce after its age in neutral French oak barrels.
Old Sound Vineyard Cabernet Franc 2022: Byron Elmendorf (winemaker at Macari) produces this small-production Cab Franc from the Mattituck-based Old Sound Vineyard. It’s silky and smooth with a great gentleness on the palate. This light, fresh, fruit forward style is a easy to enjoy North Fork red.
Paumanok Vineyards Cabernet Franc 2022: 99% Cab Franc with 1% Merlot. Wild bramble fruit, herbs like thyme and sage, fresh flowers and a touch of sweet spices. It is medium bodied with a stricter tannin than other bottlings. The extra grip on it is killer.
RGNY Cabernet Franc 2022: First time trying this and I am really impressed. A lower alcohol for red at 11.6% ABV, it has supreme freshness and the front and finishes with a classic Cabernet Franc pepperyness. With the more savory finish the wine is begging you to come back for more. Winemaker Leo Mora also had some of his 2024 Barrel Sample’s with him and I couldn’t be more excited to see what him and other North Fork winemakers do with the juice from this spectacular year.
Suhru Cabernet Franc 2021: A lip-smacking red with ripe tannins that make you salivate. Classic varietal notes of red fruits, peppery spice and an earth finish. Another example of classic Long Island Cabernet Franc. Wild flowers, wild berries, savory herbs.
Lieb Cabernet Franc 2021: Aged for 10 months in Hungarian oak. Deeper than its Suhru counterpart with juicy notes of blackberry and currant. Sweet tobacco and black pepper as well.
Wolffer Estate Vineyard Estate Cabernet Franc 2022: Mostly Cab Franc with 9% Merlot and less than 2% of Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot. Wolffer’s wine is easy to enjoy with notes of blueberry, cherry liquorice, and some dried fruits. Really nice minerality and a subtle oakiness to this as well. Really enjoyable and easy pairing wine.